When I started this year's challenge in May, my left foot was already giving me a bit of grief. I wasn't that concerned and thought (hoped actually) I'd be able to quickly shake it off. I knew deep down though that I was probably only fooling myself. By the time I'd completed stage 4 at Abingdon and hobbled to the bus stop, I knew the game was up and I would have to seek attention for what I then thought was plantar fasciitis.
After a month of visits to an osteopath, things weren't any better. Being really impatient I decided I'd try a podiatrist instead. This turned out to be a great decision! Samantha Civil, owner of Rushden Podiatry, diagnosed achilles tendinopathy as well as mild plantar fasciitis. She understood how desperate I was to get going again and came up with a detailed treatment plan for me. After sticking religiously to the exercises she'd prescribed for 4 weeks and feeling so down about having had to stop my challenge, I felt I had to get going again.
I had no idea how far I'd be able to walk but my hope was that I'd be able to get to Wallingford at least, an official distance of 13.2 miles. I'd stayed overnight in Didcot and by 8 o'clock I'd parked my car in Abingdon, bought a sandwich for lunch and was ready for the off. I was wearing trainers rather than walking shoes as recommended by Samantha and I knew from the terrain that they would be fine. It was a sunny start to the day and it felt so good to be walking along the Thames Path again! Having said this, the first 5 miles of this walk aren't desperately interesting, especially as they include walking alongside 2 man-made cuts - Culham Cut and Clifton Cut. Both of these were excavated to make navigation for boats easier than following the natural course of the river. In the case of Culham Cut, this also meant the end of having to pay tolls.
I reached Culham Lock and Sutton Bridge in good time and pain free. The single arch Sutton Bridge over Culham Cut is actually an extension to the main Sutton Bridge that spans the original navigation of the river. I took a wander to have a quick look at the main bridge. The original navigation is far prettier than the cut!
5 miles into the walk and I reached Clifton Lock looking the best I've ever seen it. To my mind this is the prettiest and best kept lock on the Thames. This is all down to the gardening skills and dedication of Curtis the lock keeper and his wife. It's rumoured that Curtis' dad was a big fan of a certain Mr Mayfield! I've been walking past this lock each year since 2020 and each time I've seen the gardens looking better than they did the year before. Curtis sells plants, ice creams and cold drinks and all profits go towards planting for the next year. He seems to have a perfect job - lucky chap!
After leaving Clifton Lock I quickly came to Clifton Hampden Bridge. This bridge was designed by Sir Gilbert Scott who was a prolific architect who was influenced by the Gothic Revival style. He famously designed the Albert Memorial and the Midland Grand Hotel at St Pancras Station. This road bridge is unusual along the Thames in that it was built using red bricks. The Thames Path crosses the river here and continues towards Dorchester.
Still pain-free, after crossing the bridge I continued alongside the river towards Day's Lock. This section has become much more interesting since the Earth Trust's 'River of Life II' project got underway as part of their Water and Wetlands programme. This has created new wetlands along the banks of the river, attracting fish, birds and mammals.
All the way from Clifton Hampden to Day's Lock, the trees of Round Hill, 1 of the 2 hills that make up the Wittenham Clumps could be seen in the background getting ever nearer. The views from the top of The Clumps are quite spectacular; in fact my favourite view of the Thames is that seen from the The Clumps
The next 2½ miles to Shillingford Bridge are always a little uninspiring because the river is obscured by trees in numerous places and also the path takes to the busy A4074 for about 700 yards. By the time I reached Shillingford Bridge my foot was definitely starting to ache a bit.
At Shillingford Bridge I was given advance notification of a diversion at Benson, just over 1 mile ahead. This diversion is necessary following the closure of the walkway across Benson Weir in November 2022 on safety grounds. I was already aware of this and I was also aware of a new ferry service that started in May 2023 that I assume will continue for as long as it's needed. The ferry takes people from the marina at Benson across the river to Benson Lock.
When I reached Benson I met up with Wendy, who amongst all the other things she manages to fit into her life, is a volunteer for the Thames Path National Trail. After it became clear earlier in the day that I'd at least be able to reach Benson, we arranged to meet at the Benson Waterfront Café - without doubt the best café along the Thames Path. For so many reasons it is understandably always busy and today was no exception. Wendy knows more about the Thames Path than anyone I've met. She also knows that my trademark refreshments at the Waterfront are a pint of San Miguel and a slice of raspberry ripple cake and ordered these without having to ask me! I'm just glad I hadn't already eaten the sandwich I'd bought for my lunch because that slice of cake was huge!
I decided that I would make Wallingford the final destination for this stage of my challenge. Wallingford is about 1½ miles from Benson. Rather than take the diversionary route from Benson I was keen to take advantage of the ferry across to the lock which would then allow me to follow the Thames Path. Wendy had business in Wallingford that afternoon so we both took the ferry.
The ferry is owned by a local vintage boat hire company based at Benson Marina. The owner bought the boat on eBay specifically for the purpose of using it to transport people across the river from the lock! Whilst the closure of the weir walkway is only meant to be temporary, in practice it could well extend beyond 2 years.
A family of swans we passed by served as a reminder that the 3rd week of July is Swan Upping week - the time of the year when the annual census of the swan population between Sunbury-on-Thames and Abingdon takes place. The Swan Uppers would reach Benson on Friday morning and this family would then be 'upped'. I've written a post on my 2021 experience of Swan Upping that explains what it's all about and the people involved - https://www.mythames.co.uk/swanupping
I walked the final 1½ miles with Wendy to Wallingford Bridge and then into the town centre before we went our separate ways. I got the bus back to Abingdon to pick up my car. Whilst the official distance covered along the Thames was 13.2 miles, as is always the case I had actually walked further than this. My FitBit said I'd covered over 15 miles. The bottom of my foot by my heel was aching - a classic symptom of plantar fasciitis but I didn't have the real pain I'd previously been experiencing and which caused me to call a halt in May.
The next morning (Tuesday), the tops of my legs were a little stiff which is hardly surprising after having done very little walking in the last 2 months. I felt really pleased that I hadn't made matters worse which I suspected would have incurred the wrath of Samantha the podiatrist! As mentioned above, this was Swan Upping week. I'd stayed over on Monday night and I'd also booked a room for Tuesday night so that I could follow the Swan Uppers for a couple of days. I walked a further 10 miles on Tuesday and 6 miles on Wednesday with no real ill effects. I decided however that I shouldn't overdo things and will wait a few more days before embarking on Stage 6 of my challenge. In the meantime, Samantha has supplied me with custom orthotics that should certainly help with my full recovery.
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